Journal de la science et de l'ingénierie textiles

The Bayer process used today for the production of alumina was originally discovered in Saint Petereburg in Russia in the Tentelev Chemical Plant for supplying mordants to the textile industry. Bayer replaced the Le Chatelier process for preparing aluminum hydroxide invented in 1855 by the sintering process by his method for preparing aluminum hydroxide by seeding in 1888 then by leaching bauxite under pressure in 1892 to recover sodium hydroxide. The process was used unviserally for the treating of bauxite for supplying the growing aluminum industry by alumina.

Recent resurgence on natural dye production and application is observed due to increasing popularity of more natural lifestyle based on naturally sustainable goods. Natural dyes from flora and fauna are viable alternatives to synthetic dyes. Studies shows that Talisay (Terminalia catappa) leaves are good sources of natural colorant producing green, yellow and black pigments, depending on the freshness of the leaves. To compete with the synthetic dyes, availability and storage stability of the natural colorants are desired. Spray drying technique is used to address such problem; wherein the liquid extract is converted to its powder form. Storage stability of the powdered dye depends on the spray drying condition used during operation. Hence, to optimize spray drying process, understanding the storage characteristic of the powdered natural dye is desired. In this study, the storage characteristic of powdered Talisay leaves, such moisture content and glass transition temperature, were determined using Thermogravimetric Analysis and Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), respectively. Effects of varying relative humidity on the EMC were also investigated. Results shows that the moisture content of the powder decreases gradually after 173°C indicating that degradation begins at this temperature. Degradation of the sample was confirm through the identified glass transition temperature of 155°C; which is very close to the degradation temperature. In addition, it was also identified that EMC increases as the relative humidity increases. However, results also signify that spray dried Talisay leaves are stable at room temperature even at varying relative humidity.

Woven fabric‘s breathability is one of the most important characteristics concerning fabrics used as tents, raincoats and uniform shirtings. It is mainly evaluated and compared significantly via fabric air permeability. This study aimed to optimization of the fabric parameters influencing the woven cotton fabrics’ air permeability. Twenty seven different fabric combinations using a 33 full factorial design were diminished to only nine fabric samples according to L9 Taguchi’s orthogonal design. These fabric samples were produced, tested and evaluated. Using S/N ratios, the best combinations of factor levels which yield the highest value of fabric air permeability were detected efficiently.

Organisations are currently adjusting their value chains to take account of consumer demand for sustainable development. They are also responding to new understandings of sustainability in textiles and branding for consumers in a globalised world. This paper analyses and discusses the evolution of a global textile pipeline into the concept of global citizenship, in which individuals evaluate the international consequences of their local behaviour. Aiming to analyse the awareness and general understanding of consumers in regards to sustainability within the apparel industry a systemic multi-worldview field research was carried out between 2014 and 2016. To do this, three sets of semi-structured interviews were developed: one for the members of the BAFTS (British Association for Fair Trade Shops and Suppliers), one for the Marketing and Membership Coordinator of this body, and a third one to a three sustainable companies not associated to BAFTS (establishing a control group). Confronted with Sachs’ five sustainable dimensions framework the interview results were analysed, as well as future implications.

This document resumes the state of the art in waste subjects in Europe and specifically those generated from textile industries, where there are two lines of bigger priority in order to diminish residue, productive efficiency and increase value, reinstating waste in its productive cycle or elaborating new products in other industrial fields external to textile.

Bi-stretch woven fabrics are widely used owing to their good physical comfort properties. In this study, it is aimed to investigate the effect of elastane draw ratio in the core-spun yarn on the air permeability and bursting strength of bi-stretch woven fabrics. For this aim, 20 Tex cotton combed ring spun yarn samples were produced with four different levels of draw ratio of elastane core (3.07, 3.33, 3.63, 3.99) in the yarn. Four woven fabric samples were produced by using these sample yarns as weft with 2/1 twill weave type. Then the air permeability and bursting strength properties of the samples were tested in dry relaxed and laundered states. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was applied to determine the effect of elastane draw ratio in the yarn and relaxation type on fabric air permeability, bursting strength and bursting height, statistically.